BONK

 Bonk is my cue to let my Aussie Keegan know that someone's going to do something totally inappropriate and we just need to show patience with this well intentioned person.  It is specific in it's meaning.  It pertains to a stranger's interaction with my dog.

It came up in a class that I took at Dogsmart with Rita Britton.  I didn't notice how uncomfortable he was with hands reaching out until this class.  The class was based on AKC obedience, so the exercises were very specific.  It brought to light what needs work.  I love classes for that purpose. That's why I teach as well!  Having a fresh set of experienced eyes watching you interact with your dog, is a sure fire way to help you identify what needs work so you can tweak your communication skills.

If you haven't noticed by now, I don't have bullet proof dogs.  We've worked through some crazy challenges and I'm proud of how far we've come, and how much further we're going to go, without frying their nervous systems!

There's a difference between:

a/intentionally suppressing behaviour by using intimidation to get your dog to "behave"  ie..all this put your chest out, be a firm leader, dog must obey..use firm tone of voice...

b/ using physical means ie..hold your dog in position or "command' them to remain in position...which I find really creepy...or worst yet "correct" them with 'equipment" for one false move....honestly I'm shocked at what I see and hear is considered "humane" treatment of dogs in the name of training. One of the saddest parts is that people are unaware that there is a gentle and efficient way to work through challenges.

c/and the way I've been taught to use Classical Conditioning and Desensitization techniques.

I'm not sure why,  but most dogs I work with have endured methods A & B,  before finding me and or Dogsmart or Bad Dogs Gone Good who all use positive means to reinforce behaviours to strengthen them WITHOUT intimidation or getting physical...

With appropriate use of CC & D, the onus is on the human to be very observant.   Never EVER should the dog be pushed into a situation where it is in distress, worried, anxious, frozen and unable to respond in an enthusiastic manner.  That's not what Classical Counter Conditioning or Desensitization is EVER about.  It's about changing the underlying feelings of the situation, making it relaxing, enjoyable and something the dog ends up tail wagging looking forward to.  THE WHOLE PROCESS should be enjoyable.  NOT uncomfortable or FORCED upon.



We did  A LOT of CC &D work before we got to this point in the video...you NEVER ever want to rush this component when working through anxiety and or fearful reactions.

If Keegan wasn't ready for a strangers approach or the class exam, I would not have taken the exam.  My dog's emotional well being comes first.

And to my dog trainer friends...note this video is from a couple years ago... and in my quest to keep things real rather than Hollywood editing...I did say "yes" without reinforcing...technically saying "yes' means the same rules apply as when you use a clicker, and a reward should follow.  So please do...reward after you say the magic word "yes" so they know which behaviour you've marked.

We still use this cue from time to time, like recently when a well coiffed West Vancouver lady asked to say hello to Kee then put him in a head lock and said she "likes it when dogs give her kisses"

OMG..mine and Kee's eyes locked and we shared a moment I believe with the same thought bubble..."is this for real?" 

This well intentioned woman just assumed my fluffy, goofy Aussie liked to be hugged.  Thankfully I've worked up to these situations where people do things that are unexpected and Kee and I have practiced what to do to get through the sticky situation.  He had gone over upon my release to 'visit", done his spins for snuggles and was on his way back to me when she grabbed him in a bear hug, to pull him close to her face.

I would never grab a dog around the neck and pull it up to my face.  A strange dog to boot!

He's a fan of busting over to say hello, loves body rubs as he spins around, loves to sniff mouths to see what you've had for lunch and if you're cute...he'll also try to slip you some tongue..BUT..he has a really really tough time with hugs and or hands reaching out looking like someone will grab and hold him.  His body language makes this very clear...but this lady obviously was not concentrating on Keegan, and whether or not he was interested in the bear hug, but rather caught up in her own mushy moment.  That's the dangerous part.

One of my goals this year is to bring to light more community awareness of appropriate meet and greets.

Including:

a/ How to read a strange dog's body language.
I like this article from Modern Dog Magazine. "What Is My Dog Trying To Tell Me"

b/ How to respect others by taking the time to please ask first from a distance,  then wait to hear if a person with dog have the time to interact.

c/ Please wait to hear if the person with dog has some special training skills they'd like to practice, take things slowly and make it a training opportunity for their dog. 

d/ Be compassionate if they prefer not to interact.  There's a reason and most times it's because their dogs are too fearful and aren't ready for that.

DO NOT grab a dog to bring him close.  Respect movement and the dog's decision to cozy in and or add distance at any point in time of the interaction.

Also, a dog that is hesitant upon approach,  is NOT ready for interaction, or cuddles.  Let them sniff and leave without moving.  A look away or down and to the side,  lick lip, slow yawn, may even help the dog feel less threatened by your presence. Turid Ruugas has good articles on her site to peruse.

I can assure you that EVERYONE would LOVE it if their dogs could handle snuggles, kisses and or being enthusiastically greeted by people, kids or other dogs...BUT the reality is that for some, it's well beyond their emotional comfort.

YOU CAN MAKE a difference in someone's training with their fearful, reactive dog. You can speed up their learning curve if you just take things slow. Take a look at their dog, does he look relaxed and happy, eager to interact from a distance?  Take a look at the owner...do they look relaxed and are they engaging you? Or are they looking to dart in and or around cars or trees, boulders...to avoid your path?  Ask in advance, 10-20ft away even, if you can say hello to their dog, then wait for their reply.

Sometimes just standing still, looking away from and letting a fearful dog look at you from a comfortable distance, then carry on, can make their training for the day, a success.

Dr. Sophia Yin has been on fire this year with blog posts and posters that you can download and share or put up in public spaces on this very subject.

Fear and Anxiety, Appropriate Meet and Greets, Dogs and Kids

Here are links to some of my favourites!